Japan 2.0: Tsumago

Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us

Tsumago in the morning was one of those experiences that are unique of Japan and heartwarming. For those who have yet to read our previous post, Tsumago is a post town in the Nakasendo trail where samurais during the Edo period used to sleep in their route to/from Kyoto and Tokyo. Tsumago is a tiny (around) 20 houses town, all of them with a beautifully conserved architecture. It even has ruins of an old Castle that show how prosperous & cosmopolitan the town was back at the Edo period, which is quite surprising for our current standards, right? The town is now devouted to tourism with shops and inns, but it doesn’t lack any bit of its charm with cultivated lands all around.

Make sure you read first how we got to Tsumago walking the 8 km magical route that takes you here from Magome, another post town in the Nakasendo route. I think it makes a good introduction about why we ended up here.

Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us Matsushiroya - The cat, you and us

To spend the night we chose the Matsushiroya Inn, a 200 years old minshuku with 8 rooms and the most gorgeous paper sliding doors. We were lucky that only two rooms where occupied that night (one was ours) which led to lot of intimacy and the feeling the house was indeed ours, or at least it was a rent lease for a few hours. Usually when you stay at a minshuku, dinner and breakfast are included in the price of the night. Here it was served in separate individual rooms, so although we got a glimpse of the other guests, we had both meals alone. This is something I appreciate, but some would prefer communal rooms to meet new people.

Matsushiroya also has a very pretty distribution with open-air parts to access to the rooms, ours was precisely in that wing which gave us a pretty light entering in the morning (see pic below!). At this open-air part they had two small ponds with koi fish, don’t need to tell you which sushi we got for dinner, right? ehem…

Matsushiroya - The cat, you and us Matsushiroya - The cat, you and us

As much as I love Japanese cuisine, traditional breakfasts are always my least favorite part because they have lots of pickle veggies, which I’m not too fond of.

Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us

Spending the night allows having Tsumago with no tourists, only a few locals waking up the town.

Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us

Look! A ninja in town!

Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us Chili drying - The cat, you and us
Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us

Morning hair don’t care! ha! it is specially visible my off-the-bed do in the first pic of this post.

Teru Teru - The cat, you and us

This is a teru teru bozu, a handmade doll that resembles a ghost and are used as a talisman to bring good weather. I think it worked quite well, I should make my own for Barcelona too!

Tsumago in the morning - The cat, you and us

Tsumago, you will be stuck in my heart forever! I think Tsumago is our Ainokura of this second trip, different yet each have a bit of my heart.

This was my last view of Japan’s countryside and it was going to be the start of that bittersweet moment when you realize that the trip is going to end. Next stop will be Tokyo again, to bid adieus!

More of our Japan 2.0 adventures:
Tokyo – Part I: Shinjuku & Harajuku
Tokyo – DisneySea
Kamakura
Hakone and the Takuminoyado Yoshimatsu onsen
Osaka – Part I: Osaka Castle, Umeda views and Dotonbori at night
Himeji Castle (& the Hello Kitty café)
Osaka – Part II: Dotonbori, Namba temple and Den Den Town
Kyoto: Gion, Kamo riverside & Nishiki market
Arashiyama: monkey park, the river, Tenryuji temple and the bamboo grove
Nakasendo trail: from Magome to Tsumago

7 Comments / 2 

  1. Audrey | Brunch at Audrey's - 29th March 2017

    I prefer individual rooms; I think you’re very brave and adventurous for preferring communal rooms! It’s definitely a better way to gain new experiences and immerse yourself in the culture :) // I still can’t get over the misty mountains in that second photo! -Audrey | Brunch at Audrey’s

    • We reply...

      Oh! I expressed myself wrongly, sorry about that! I’m also like you, I prefer individual rooms. Specially to sleep, I couldn’t otherwise :) I was referring to a communal dining room, and even for those I prefer individual, ha! Too shy :) although I agree you can learn heaps by adventuring. Thanks for your sweet comments & for joining us in the Japan travel series <3

  2. Fiona - 29th March 2017

    Such an amazing place and I was just thinking this town is your Ainokura! So true :) Oh gosh now I just want to go back to Japan again, I feel like you guys always find such incredible places and then I think, well the whole of Japan is incredible! but yes, this place definitely has that extra special magic I think and your photos are so so beautiful!

    • We reply...

      We have also so many places from your trip in our bucket list too! <3 Thanks dear Fee for your beautiful words!

  3. Nieves - 29th March 2017

    Qué lugar más hermoso es tsumago! Son unas fotos maravillosas, me ha hecho gracia el fantasma que está en la puerta,y la devoción con qué miras la comida, que tiene una pinta fantástica!

  4. Marine - 1st April 2017

    So beautiful!!! I get more and more enamored with Japan with each one of your posts :)

    • We reply...

      Thank you Marine for such lovely words! It makes me super happy to read it! Big hug <3

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